Unforgettable.
To stand on holy ground – De Oude Kwaremont – where – for a century – every year De Ronde van Vlaanderen epic cycling battle happens and signifies the arrival of spring in the fields of Flanders.
To be immersed in the atmosphere and Flemish sounds and sights all around, as the rain falls in typical fashion, making the parcour (route) unbelievably difficult for the top riders in the world, as a million people line the 270km winding course with its legendary climbs and sections… An unimaginable privilege.
Thousands have come from all over the globe to spectate this, as Belgium comes to a standstill on this tremendous day: a Hoogdag.
The crowds – electric with expectation – follow the race on their phones, on radios, on big screens placed all along the roads, and through messages and rumours that come drifting in the wind. They stand in the thick mud for hours – eating, drinking, enjoying the festive atmosphere… and trying not to lose the “special” little vantage point they’ve found (either by luck – or planned weeks ahead).
Later – as the first support vehicles rush by – packed with expensive equipment, team managers, medical staff and maybe a politician or two – and the helicopters in the sky come closer – the tension in the crowd builds… people forget the wet, cold and tiredness. Voices go a little softer… into a lower tone… laughter gets a little nervous. Everyone’s eyes turn to focus on that bend in the road, and the sounds and facial expressions start changing… into something… primal.
And then – after some 130km of tremendous racing (and another 140 or so to go) the first ascent of the Kwaremont begins… as people hold their breaths for the first live glimpse of their heroes storming up the treacherously wet and steep cobble stones.
Before it all erupts!
(A little video snippet like this really does not do justice to the experience of actually being there. Volume up HIGH to get some feel of it.)
They know how hard it is.
It is on these roads where great heroes of the past have become famous…. statues and monuments in their honour dot the country… as their names are still seen on banners and fans’ clothing to this day. This is the history of a people… where young men in the 1900s-1970’s – with little hope of a good future – were often liberated from the mines and windswept farms by becoming cycling heroes – celebrated by their hometowns, and bringing prosperity and respect to their families.
This is a nation where only the best, the toughest, and revered few will become a Flandrien!
This is where sport, lifestyle and religion merges.
This is Koers.
This is Vlaanderens Mooiste.
For the uninitiated that might be curious: the guy flying ahead here up the Kwaremont is the famous Mathieu van der Poel – currently seen by many as the world’s best one-day classics rider …. on the very top of his game… in perfect form.
An image to behold. Pure genetic genius at work.
Mathieu’s dad is the well-known Adri van der Poel from the 80’s and 90’s… known especially for his extreme capabilities in winter cyclocross races… running up muddy hills in dense fog with his bike over his shoulder – an iconic image.
Today he is still seen – and very much admired and respected – amongst the crowds when his son is racing.
Mathieu’s grandfather was the legendary French rider, Raymond Poulidor – or “Poupou” as he was called. A fabulous bike racer, he never managed to win the Tour de France – despite finishing 2nd at three occasions. From this he was known as The eternal second…
It was the great Fausto Coppi who said: “Genetics may load the gun, but it’s the rider who pulls the trigger with every pedal stroke.“
Fred Roux
April 2024
West Flanders
With appreciation for my Flemish friends.
Bedankt ee gast'n! Ek. Was. Daar.
